Joy’s Nevis Diary (March 28 – May 2, 2009)

 

Travel to Nevis

Bags checked at O’hare—everything out of our control now. Phew! A 50-minute wait on the tarmac (ground stop in Charlotte because of fog and rain), but we are relaxed. With incredible luck, we still make our connection. We sit on the next plane, in an exit row with lots of leg room, and a glow comes over us. We’re on our way!

 

We have a 4-hour layover in St. Martin, so we enjoy some rum punch and local food at a restaurant on the water. I am looped off the first half of my rum punch. The view is spectacular. The people friendly. Our spirits very high.

 

The plane we take to Nevis is, in Mark’s words, “the puddle-jumper of all puddle jumpers.” I immediately wonder if they’ve carefully weighed the luggage and estimated the weights of the passengers (it’s a full plane). No time to worry about that, though, as my seat belt doesn’t fit (way too big) and I can’t adjust it (plus my carry-on bag in on my lap—that’s how tight the quarters are). I feel like one of the kids in the back seat of the car: “Don’t go yet, I don’t have my seatbelt in place!” This clearly doesn’t matter to the pilots, though, as they quickly start moving to the runway. Mark adjusts my belt so it sort-of fits, and I go to my quiet, meditative place.

 

We made it just fine (what a silly thing to worry about). Adolfo, local caretaker of Black Sand Cove (where we stay) picks us up at the airport and gives us a leisurely tour of the west side of the island (our cottage is on the southwest corner).

 

Time in Nevis

The gardens surrounding the cottage are spectacular—bright flowers, lush green plants, mourning doves cooing, hummingbirds and butterflies everywhere. We can see the ocean from our front porch and the mountain from our back porch. Each day is sunny and 80-some degrees, with a nice breeze. (I love the breeze—it cools things down, keeps bugs away, and the sound of wind through the trees is so comforting.)

 

My first run is wonderful. Shorts and a tank top! The sun is warm; the air is moist (but not too humid). My body and joints feel good in this climate.

 

There are goats and cows grazing the land everywhere. The goats are quite cute and also skittish. As I approach them in the road, they quickly run the other direction. There are also feral donkeys all over the island (brought here when the island was full of sugar plantations). They aren’t on our property, but quite near. Every so often you hear them loudly braying—if they are in the distance, they sound exactly like Sandpeople. (Mark and I watched a pack of them interact—very interesting dynamics; lots of backing into each other and kicking—the double-leg kick means business; lots of mounting each other and eating grass and loud honking/braying for what seems like no reason.)

 

The bikes that come with the cottage are uncomfortable, but definitely usable (my butt is so pampered). Our first bike into town (Charlestown, the capital) is jarring for me. Our cottage is a quiet oasis. Charlestown is (relatively speaking, for an island of only 11,000 people) full of people (with cell phones!), cars, and narrow streets. We get groceries and then scurry back to our oasis.

 

Our second trip to town is less jarring. Each Tuesday there is a fruit and vegetable market. We plan to make this a regular stop.

 

Mark is reading Alexander Hamilton’s biography (Hamilton was born on Nevis). Very interesting man and good (albeit violent) history of the island (having Mark read a book is like getting the Cliff Notes—he tells me all the high points).

 

I’m reading Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. I tell Mark I am “living off the land” by eating all the passion fruits that fall on our back porch.

 

Mark saw a monkey! Right on our back porch. The monkey ran as soon as Mark made a small sound, so I’m still in search of a monkey sighting. We asked Adolfo and he said the little guy probably wanted some passion fruit. I suppose I can share my fruit with a cute little monkey. (Although Adolfo also said the rascally monkeys typically take one bite of a fruit and then discard it—I’m not sure they fully understand Barbara Kingsolver’s message.)

Adolfo just brought us bananas from a tree on the property and also a cantaloupe. It’s quite beautiful to hear Adolfo talk about the property and the gardens. He understands this land and these plants like he does his own body and soul. He is definitely one with this place; it is in his bones (and in his heart).

 

Yesterday was quite a day. First of all, Mark saw the monkey. Then we “communed” with the ocean for the first time (I quite genuinely told Mark that I needed to commune and become part of the ocean, and now he playfully uses this term). Our beach is rocky and pebbly, yet soft and gentle, too. It was lovely to get a dose of vitamin D, snorkel, ride the waves, and search for special stones. I will definitely commune regularly. Then Mark made a great batch of chili and just before bed we sat in the hot tub (well, really a warm tub) and watched the stars. The moon is not even half full and yet it lit the night. The sky seems so big here—very little light pollution. Another day in paradise.

 

We’ve decided that homemade cornbread is one of the most delicious and versatile foods. We’ve eaten it with spaghetti, omelets, and chili, each meal a wonderful treat. We’ve enjoyed making all our own food (rather than eating out). It’s fun to make frequent trips to the markets and stores to get fresh foods and then concoct things together (e.g., chili, cornbread, banana bread, salsa, refried beans, roasted sweet potatoes, biscuits, pasta sauce, frittatas). Dinner on the front porch at sunset is delightful. (And we’ve been able to add to the compost pile that nourishes the property.)

 

There’s a gap in the rental of the main house on the property, so we have full reign of the grounds for over a week. (Not that we ever noticed the people while they were in the house—they were very quiet and the landscaping provides nice privacy for both the house and the cottage.) What’s nice is that we can use their pool and pavilion, both of which overlook the ocean (for what Adolfo calls the “big-screen ocean view”).

 

Early morning on the property is beautiful. The birds, lizards, butterflies, and bees all wake up and the place hums. A walk through the gardens just after sunrise is peaceful, yet energizing.

 

It was fresh-veggies-and-fruit-market day today (pineapple, grapefruit, peppers, onions, tomatoes, bananas, mmmm). We also went to the Nevis Historical Museum, which had a nice display on Alexander Hamilton. There’s an adorable outdoor café (in an open courtyard) next to the museum. A lovely woman named Liz runs the place (she’s originally from Britain, but has been on Nevis 4 years). We got a scrumptious lunch (goat cheese/walnut/veggie salad for me and BLT for Mark). Plus, they have latte! Can you believe it? In my wildest dreams, I couldn’t have imagined drinking a latte on Nevis. Thank you, Liz, for that wonderful indulgence.

 

Adolfo brought us some young coconuts (the coconuts on the property don’t have the dark brown, crusty exterior we’re used to seeing). He said the “meat” of the young coconut is good for the kidneys (and it’s much softer—they call it “jelly-like”—than the coconut we’re used to). He left us a machete to open the things. Mark didn’t think me and a machete was such a good idea, but I gave it a few whacks (ultimately, Mark had to finish the job). The young-coconut flesh grew on me—it’s a different, but good taste (plus, it’s good for the kidneys).

 

We took a hike from our cottage to Brown Hill—through dirt roads, pastures, green-covered ravines, small towns, and up the steepest hill either of us has climbed (we can’t believe cars actually make it up and down this hill regularly). It gave us an incredible view of the southern-side of the island.

 

Adolfo was concerned (after the long Easter weekend—Friday and Monday are holidays here) that we hadn’t called (apparently guests typically call him more often—not sure why). I told him we were blissfully happy and there’s nothing we need. He said, “you really meant it when you said you were low maintenance.” I’m glad we can be low maintenance for Adolfo (and for ourselves).

 

We’ve fallen into a nice routine (as far as “routines” go while on vacation): Get up fairly early (5ish for Mark—he spends the first hour of the day walking around the grounds—and 6ish for Joy), enjoy a nice breakfast together on the front porch, perhaps chat with Adolfo, Mark usually plays fiddle by the sea after breakfast and I usually journal/read/write, then we have a variety of possible daily activities—reading, meditating (Joy), communing with the ocean, bike trips to town for groceries, exploration of the historical sites in town, hikes on the southern-side of the island, pilates/running (Joy), playing fiddle (Mark), snacking, writing, napping, walking around the grounds (each time you notice something new)—and then we have a nice dinner together at sunset on the front porch before a quiet night of reading, yoga, and sometimes even scrabble, and then lights out at 9pm. We try to limit our trips off our oasis (only 2-3 a week), as it’s so restful and rejuvenating to be right here.

 

Adolfo pointed out two sour-orange trees. They are producing lots of fruit. I picked 8 oranges (definitely sour!), squeezed them and mixed the juice with water and sugar. It made for a lovely ade with dinner.

 

We stopped briefly at the Botanical Gardens during our hike to Brown Hill. As I sit on the front porch of our cottage, I think we actually live in a botanical garden. Mark commented that the only “trash” on the grounds is flower petals. Sometimes when the breeze is really strong, it seems to be raining flower petals—quite beautiful.

 

I saw a monkey! I was on the front porch and he was briefly sitting on the trunk of a tree. I got a really good look at him, but then he darted away. Unfortunately, it was the mango tree he was sitting on, which won’t please Adolfo. The mango tree is apparently a very special breed (in terms of the tastiness of the mangoes), and the last time it bore fruit the monkeys picked them all. Right now there are two small (not yet fully developed fruit) on the tree. Hopefully the monkey wasn’t scouting out those. [Adolfo just came by to show me the remains of one of the mangoes—yes, the monkey had a nice treat. Adolfo decided to cover the remaining mango in a plastic bag.]

 

We took our 5-speed bikes up 1000 feet in elevation yesterday. It was quite a climb. Beautiful scenery, but an honest slog. (I definitely counted it as my workout for the day.) The destination was incredible—well worth the ride. We went to Golden Rock Plantation Inn. It’s tucked away in the mountain—an inn made out of a restored sugar plantation. The buildings are interesting, the gardens beautiful, and the view (of the ocean) spectacular. After our long and hard bike ride, we took a short hike through the rainforest (Golden Rock is where most of the rainforest hikes begin). Then we indulged in a lovely lunch overlooking the ocean. What an incredible day. And the bike ride home was a breeze (yes, I rode the brakes the whole way).

 

We saw many monkeys while in the rainforest. They don’t scuttle away as quickly when we’re on their home base. They keep a safe distance, but they turn to look curiously at us. They move very lithely and are quite quiet (very different from, say, the goats).

 

Post dinner (right at dusk) we’ve enjoyed watching the feeding antics of the bats. They put on quite an air show (flying fast, dipping down quickly, and changing directions drastically). One evening a bat even took a detour through out patio area (of course I crouched and covered my head, but Mark watched in delight).

 

Yesterday we rode our bikes to the north side of the island. There’s a small bike shop there run by Winston—a tall, fit, gregarious man with a lovely English accent. Mark bought a spoke wrench to make our bike’s run more efficiently, and Winston told us about the triathlon and biking club they started 12 years ago (it’s going strong, with weekly races). Plus, we got a gorgeous view of St. Kitts (an island two miles from Nevis—St. Kitts and Nevis formed their own country, as part of the British Commonwealth of States).

 

On our way home we stopped at Sunshine’s, which is highly recommended by all who come here—particularly the rum drink called the Killer Bee. Although we didn’t get to meet Sunshine (he’d just left), he’s apparently a Rastafarian with a huge personality. Over 10 years ago, he created a comfy, lounge-like shack right on the beach, with good food and drinks. The Killer Bees were quite good (with fresh-ground nutmeg on top—I’ll have to remember that trick). After two of them (and a relaxing swim in the ocean and lounging in the comfy couches) we were both feeling pretty blissed-out, not necessarily wanting to make the short bike ride home. We also had a conversation with Sweet Pea, who does hair braiding on the beach by Sunshine’s. She told us about the Four Seasons Hotel (just next to Sunshine’s) being shut down (waiting on new insurance after the last hurricane) and the impact it’s had locally—the hotel laid off over 600 locals. That’s a huge deal for an island of only 11,000 people. (Sweet Pea also put in a plug for her hair-braiding talents. Apparently when Kelly Ripa—of Regis and Kelly in the Morning, or whatever that show is—stays at the Four Seasons, Sweet Pea does her braids. She was quite proud of that.)

 

On Tuesdays, Fidelina comes to clean the cottage. So we bike into town for our usual fresh-fruit-and-veggie market, groceries, and lunch at Café de Arts. But we also try to look into some of the historical spots in Charlestown. Yesterday we went to the old Bath House Hotel (built in 1778, it and its “healing” water springs put Nevis on the tourism map). It’s now a government building. We went to extend our visa (upon our arrival at the airport, the officer said he would give us 4 weeks, but no more—we’d need to pay to get the visa extended later in our visit). The official we spoke with this time was very kind; she looked at our passports and said, “he gave you until April 28 and you leave May 2, this shouldn’t be a problem.” I guess this is how it works on the islands. We’ll cross our fingers that they see it the same way at the airport in St. Kitts.

 

We also went to the Jewish cemetery. The oldest grave in the cemetery is dated 1679 (the newest is 1768). It was quite interesting to walk around and think about these people’s lives so long ago. (In the early 1700s, Jewish people made up 25% of the 300-person population of Nevis.)

 

Yesterday it rained (hard at times) all afternoon. This is very unusual for Nevis. But we holed up in the cottage and read books. And Mark made an incredibly delicious homemade pizza for dinner—what a treat.

 

Mark’s enjoyed watching the goat parade each morning by our house. He sits inside our fence and simply watches them pass by on the road. Every once in a while one of the goats gets a whiff of Mark’s scent and stops in its tracks, but then moves on. Once the goats pass, a small donkey parade follows. It’s fun to think about where they might be going. Perhaps some wild-and-crazy goat-donkey party? Probably just better grass and brush to munch on.

 

Yesterday was Mark’s birthday. We had homemade biscuits and island fruit (papaya and grapefruit) for breakfast. The papaya came from a tree on the property (Adolfo kindly dropped it off for us). Here’s the count of what we’ve eaten right off the property: cantaloupe, papaya, bananas, many sour oranges (3 batches of yummy ade), many coconuts, and many passion fruit. After our usual lolling in the morning, Mark chose to celebrate his birthday at Sunshine’s (with Killer Bees—the excellent rum drink I previously wrote about). We biked there, took a dip in the ocean, and then had a light lunch and two Killer Bees at Sunshine’s. While there, we had an interesting conversation with Jimmy, a big-hearted Rastafarian who lives on the mountain, but once a month comes to the ocean to see his friends and get a dose of the sea. He talked about love, reincarnation, and tolerance. Mark thought he was a bit of a yammerer, but I thought he was a gentle soul filled with lots of love. I was also sung to by a reggae artist named Watusi. He wanted us to buy a cd (choice of 3). Since we couldn’t listen to them first, I asked him to sing me a song from each (he thought I’d go for the love-song cd, but I went for the “roots/revolution” cd). And we also bought a necklace for Mark for his birthday (from the same artist—with the warm personality—that I previously bought my necklace). I had to prep her first (I was Mark’s body guard)—told her he didn’t want to be “sold,” he only wanted to leisurely look. She dutifully laid out the necklaces and let him decide. He chose a beautiful necklace made of cork, seashell, and coconut. On the way home, we picked up ice cream for Mark’s birthday dessert. This was quite a decadent treat, as we haven’t had dessert the entire time we’ve been on Nevis.

 

We had out last Tuesday in Charlestown (fresh-produce market and lunch at Café de Arts). We also went to the Nevis Museum of History. This museum featured Lord Horatio Nelson, who was a decorated naval officer for England. His connection with Nevis is that he was hard-nosed in enforcing laws against free trade (which didn’t win him over with the Nevisians) and that he married a Nevisian woman. But then he apparently became an outstanding leader (lost the pain-in-the-assness and developed the “Nelson Touch”) for the British. It’s interesting how Nevis so proudly displays information on Alexander Hamilton and Horatio Nelson, even though they really didn’t spend much time here. This particular museum also went into the long-ago history of the island when the Arawaks first settled and also the pride the island takes in its education system (98% literacy rate—highest among Caribbean islands). That was neat stuff to read about.

 

Tonight we’ll make a frittata for dinner that includes all our leftover vegetables (we’ve done a good job of eating everything down—planning our last few meals carefully). Then tomorrow morning we catch the ferry to St. Kitts and fly out of the St. Kitts airport (back to reality). We are deeply grateful for all Nevis has given us.

 

Travel from Nevis

Taking the ferry from Nevis to St. Kitts was a wonderful way to slowly say goodbye to Nevis (and see its beauty in the bigger picture). We got there early, so we’d have seats outside on the small deck of the ferry boat. We were able to have a nice lunch in St. Kitts before heading to the airport and the long plane travel home (4-hour flight followed by a 2-hour flight—no puddle jumpers!). We came home to long lines at immigration/customs, masks worn by customs workers and a few passengers (thank goodness we’d been shut out from all the crazy TV-coverage/panic about the swine flu), and a kind customs officer who let my Nevis nutmeg through (there are nutmeg trees on Nevis and I bought some on the last market day). We got back to Appleton at a wonderful time—everything is greening and the springtime weather is here.