"Our Nation’s Capital" almost always springs to mind when one thinks of Washington. And, of course, DC is a great place for political and monument junkies. But it also is much more: a city of real people with all the usual things (great restaurants, theater, concerts, movies, professional sports, etc.) that attract people to big cities. It's racially and culturally diverse, drawing people from every state and every country. It's the home of several universities. And we have some of the finest art and artifacts collections in the world -- most of them free.
In fact -- in terms of free entertainment -- Washington has as much as probably any city on earth. Where else can you visit one of the world's great art collections (the National Gallery), make faces at the animals (the National Zoo), get into the head of Antonin Scalia (the Supreme Court), see the country's greatest book collection (the Library of Congress), and take one of the world's greatest strolls imaginable (the Mall), all without spending a dime?
DC appeals to all ages but can be an especially attractive place if you're just getting out of college or grad school and think you might want a career in politics, journalism, the law, non-profit work, the arts, or something international -- or really don't know what you want to do. It abounds with people just like you -- often trying one thing for a few years that leads to another, even better thing. And you might want to continue your education here, too -- there are lots of day and night school possibilities.
Potomac Fever is real -- once Washington gets in your blood, you'll want to stay, or at least keep coming back.
Index
A. Moving to DC (or considering it)
B. Just Visiting
C. For Everyone
A. Moving to DC (or considering it)
Living Here - Neighborhoods and Housing Possibilities
Tips
DC has a number of livable neighborhoods, close to the heart of things. But it's also an expensive city -- for renting or buying.
If you're young, starting out, somewhat impoverished, and renting, you might want to consider a roommate, a group house (pretty popular here), or an English basement (the basement of a house made into an apartment -- who knows why they're called "English"?). The Washington Post (especially the Saturday and Sunday editions) is a good place to start. Also, visit the offices of your hometown Congressperson and Senators; make friends with the staff and ask about Web sites, bulletin boards, and other places to look. You're bound to get on to something and make a friend or two in the process.
If you're buying ... there are many choices in single family houses, townhouses, condos, and coops. But look closely before you leap and don't buy into a neighborhood just because of the "star quality" of its name. For example, Bethesda and Chevy Chase, Maryland have been known for decades as beautiful, tree-lined, close-in suburbs with some of the best public schools in the nation. But, in the last few years, they've also become some of the priciest suburbs in the nation, in terms of housing -- and you might find something just as nice in, say, Kensington, Silver Spring, or Takoma Park (all in the same county -- Montgomery -- as Bethesda and Chevy Chase).
Of course, in choosing your residence, think about how you're going to get to work, school, and nightlife. And if you're coming from a place where you drove everywhere, think afresh. The Washington area has horrible traffic issues, few free or cheap parking lots, and, in many places, difficult street parking issues. So you may want to do most of your daily commuting by Metro (the subway system). It's clean, safe, and can get you most anywhere you're likely to want to go. So you might want to choose your neighborhood, in part, based on its accessibility to a Metro station. And don't forget about the walking or bicycling options. DC isn't New York but it is one of those places where one doesn't really need a car. (And, unlike New York, we have real supermarkets just about everywhere!)
Especially in the close-in DC neighborhoods, it may be important to make some inquiries about particular blocks. Although DC's crime is greatly overrated -- it's as safe as any other big city -- some areas can vary in terms of their safety, block to block.
Now, here's a guide to some of the neighborhoods in which you might want to consider living -- whether you're renting or buying (all have a mix). The list isn't comprehensive, but provides a good start.
The Heart of DC
Dupont Circle. On the map: the 8 or so blocks north, west, and east of the actual Dupont Circle (where Connecticut Avenue, New Hampshire Avenue, and other streets converge). A beautiful urban neighborhood. Generally, older (19th century), brownstones, townhouses, and other 2- and 3-story houses with a fairly large smattering of newer apartment buildings. Many houses are broken up into a few apartments (for sale or rent) or used by small not-for-profit or other organizations. Likely to be pricy because of the amenities: good restaurants, nightlife, bookstores, etc. and within easy walking distance of the Connecticut Avenue/K Street business area. Pretty gardens in small spaces.
The West End. On the map: west of Dupont Circle West and east of Georgetown (from Pennsylvania Avenue north to about P Street; from about 25th Street west to about 21st Street). A burgeoning office building, hotel, and apartment area. Pricy and somewhat sterile, but convenient to amenities.
Foggy Bottom. On the map: around the Kennedy Center, the State Department, Watergate, and George Washington University. Established neighborhood of small, mainly 19th century houses and mid-to-late 20th century apartment buildings -- in the case of both houses and apartment buildings, some for sale and some for rent. Mixed prices -- in terms of older people, it tends to attract an international population because of its proximity to the World Bank and similar institutions.
Georgetown. On the map: the heart is the intersection of Wisconsin Avenue and M Street. Yes, it's a beautiful and historic neighborhood, but probably overrated in many respects. It has shopping, restaurants, and nightlife, but they're not necessarily the best in town. Because of Georgetown University and tourists, the streets and sidewalks can be crowded. Housing tends to be on the high end, although it might be an option for a group house arrangement. Note: there is no Metro station in Georgetown. For public transportation, use the bus or hike to the George Washington University/Foggy Bottom station.
Adams Morgan. On the map: the heart is Columbia Road and 18th Street. A really "hot" area, especially for younger people. For the last several years, Adams Morgan has been -- and continues to be -- the home to many people of Central and South American heritage, but a lot of others now also call it home. Many apartment buildings (with apartments for sale and for rent) with a good sprinkling of houses. Draws are lots of restaurants and nightlife, as well as convenience to other good neighborhoods. Mixed prices.
Logan Circle and the U Street Corridor. On the map: U Street, north and east of Dupont Circle; around the real Logan Circle (where Vermont Avenue, P Street, and other streets converge). As recently as 10 years ago, these neighborhoods were catching on, but still considered "fringe" in terms of amenities and safety. From the late 1960s until the early- to mid-1990s, 14th Street was famous for prostitutes and peep shows. But now these neighborhoods are cleaned up and very hot, having many of the same draws as Dupont Circle and Adams Morgan. Housing is likely to be on the expensive end, but deals still may be found.
Capitol Hill
The residential areas around the Capital always have been, and always will be, nice places to live, especially for those who work nearby. The neighborhood is comprised mainly of 19th century houses, but there are apartment buildings here and there. Mixed prices; many group houses.
Leafier DC
Apartments on Connecticut Avenue and Wisconsin Avenue. If you're interested in renting or buying an apartment in DC and want something slightly less "urban" than the above neighborhoods -- but still have convenient restaurants, shopping, and public transportation -- you'll probably want to check out Connecticut Avenue north of Dupont Circle and Wisconsin Avenue north of Georgetown. These streets (especially Connecticut, and Wisconsin around the National Cathedral [at Massachusetts Avenue]) are lined with apartment buildings of varying ages, quality, price levels, and populations.
Upper NW DC Neighborhoods. West of Rock Creek Park, and north of Dupont Circle, you'll find a number of lovely, tree-lined neighborhoods lined with single-family, detached houses. Once largely a working middle class area (the average bureaucrat could afford to live here), houses now tend to be very expensive to purchase -- because the neighborhoods are pretty and close to the heart of town -- but there are large numbers of younger people in group houses and English basements here (in part because American University is in this area). And, if you look hard enough, you may be able to find something within your means to buy (among other things, there are quite a few "handyman specials").
If you're traveling up Connecticut Avenue and cross the bridge that spans Rock Creek Park, the first neighborhood you'll be in is Woodley Park A little north as well as west is Cleveland Park. Still farther north, you'll be in Chevy Chase DC (as opposed to Chevy Chase, Maryland). Around Tenley Circle (on Wisconsin Avenue), you'll find yourself in Tenleytown and somewhat west and north of there, in AU (short for American University) Park. The area around Wisconsin, Western Avenue, and Military Road is Friendship Heights (see "For Everyone - Shopping" below). The area past American University around Massachusetts Avenue is Spring Valley. And the area around MacArthur Boulevard is Palisades.
None of these neighborhoods has definite borders and, no doubt, a few names are left out. The best idea, if this part of Washington might be an area where you'd consider living, is to drive around. Most of these neighborhoods will have good Metro service, but to get a good feel for things, a car (or a bicycle) is recommended.
Glover Park. This neighborhood, sometimes overlooked by the newcomer, is comprised largely of houses from the first half of the 20th century and might be a good option for a first rental (especially a group house arrangement or English basement) or purchase. It's west of Wisconsin Avenue in "upper Georgetown" and south of Massachusetts Avenue. Because it's close to major thoroughfares, it's close to restaurants, shopping, etc. But a drawback is that, like Georgetown, there is no convenient Metro station.
Upper 16th Street. This area, on and around 16th Street north of about U Street and heading into Silver Spring, Maryland, is another neighborhood that's sometimes overlooked by the newcomer, but might be worth checking out. 16th Street is lined with majestic older apartment buildings, embassies (although eclipsed now by the Massachusetts Avenue "embassy row" from Dupont Circle to American University) and churches. The surrounding streets tend to have nice, middle-class homes with a good mix of long-time and newer residents.
Note on Living in DC for Those with Kids
There are those who reject living in DC because of its reputation for bad public schools. In part, this reputation is deserved, but as with any city, DC has some good public schools (and, of course, there are a number of private school options).
Recently, legislation was enacted to give DC kids (and their parents) a big break on out-of-state college tuition at schools around the country. Check it out!
And Taxation without Representation....
DC residents are second class citizens insofar as they pay high taxes (local and federal, the same as in a state) without having the representation in Congress that residents of a state enjoy. This is, indeed, a drawback of living in the District, as opposed to the Virginia and Maryland suburbs, but the appeals of DC life can easily make up for it. There also are high hopes for (and a lot of work being put into) a change in the not-too-distant future. (And, in the meantime, if you drive, you can impress your out-of-DC friends with the "Taxation without Representation" logo on your license plates.)
Burbs and Exurbs
Close-in: Montgomery County, Maryland; Prince George's County, Maryland; Fairfax County, Virginia; Arlington, Virginia; and Alexandria, Virginia can all be nice places to live for families, as well as singles and couples. Montgomery County and Fairfax County are renowned for their excellent public school systems. Although all of the italicized places are generally marked by single-family, detached homes, apartment buildings and numerous younger people also can be found, especially in places like Silver Spring (a part of Montgomery County) and Rosslyn (in Arlington, right across the Potomac from Georgetown). Metro and good bus service also is available in most locations (although the Metro stations do not tend to be as concentrated as in DC).
As with Upper NW DC, you'll likely want to drive around these close-in suburbs, if possible, to get a good feel for particular neighborhoods.
A few special notes. Bethesda, Maryland, although still largely a residential burb, has caught on in the last several years for its "restaurant row" and high-end shopping. And Alexandria, Virginia is well worth checking out. It's a colonial, independent city with lovely, small (and some big) houses, a great waterfront (the Potomac), and good shopping and dining opportunities. Large apartment buildings have sprung up in recent years.
Farther out: Loudon County, Virginia -- until a few years ago, considered "the country" by many -- is a rapidly growing area of new housing developments. Route 66 -- near Dulles Airport -- is another area that's grown in recent years, including with lots of apartment buildings, as this is one of the area's major tech centers. (With the decline of tech jobs, it's possible that relatively inexpensive housing might be found in this area.) Some of what were the "country towns" of Montgomery County, Maryland also have grown in popularity -- Poolesville, for example.
And still farther: For those seeking a slightly more pastoral and, perhaps, less expensive (but, for good or ill, developing) setting ... Check out the northern and western fringes of Montgomery County, Maryland, up on into Frederick and Frederick County, Maryland and even the panhandle of West Virginia (around Harper's Ferry). Also check out Prince William County, Stafford County, Fredericksburg, and Spotsylvania County, Virginia. Part of the attraction of these areas is that, for those commuting to DC or the close-in suburbs for work, there may be train service: the MARC for Maryland and the panhandle of West Virginia, and Virginia Rail Express (VRE) for Virginia. Check the MARC and VRE Web sites, or go to Union Station (in DC) for details.
Jobs
Overview
The DC area is lacking in traditional manufacturing industries so this is not the place to be if that's where your interests lie. But "desk" and other service jobs abound. In addition to myriad government and not-for-profit possibilities, this is a great place for journalists and writers (think about grant proposal-writing, for example), legal professionals (of course), and high tech.(In addition to large independent high tech companies, numerous tech possibilities exist at places such as the Pentagon.)
Networking
It's huge, here. If you're just starting out, talk to your friends, your roommates, and people you meet at Starbucks and the CVS. Contact Lawrence alumni and professors and your parents' next-door neighbors who once lived in Washington.
Internships, Temp and Part-time Jobs, Receptionist/Administrative Assistant Jobs
A lot of places in Washington -- not just the White House and Congress -- offer internships, and not just for the summer. If you can afford it (perhaps by supplementing your income in a restaurant or retail), don't be afraid to take an internship because it may well be the stepping stone to something bigger. Ditto for temp and part-time jobs, as well as receptionist and AA jobs. Remember that there are a lot of interesting, fun, and well-paying jobs here -- but also a lot of well-educated and otherwise talented people vying for them.
"Pounding the Pavement"
If you are deciding you would like to live in DC, but have no idea where to start looking for a job, you might begin with The Washington Post (especially the Sunday edition) and www.washingtonpost.com. Also, check out the offices of your hometown Congressperson and Senators. They might not have anything in their offices (probably they won't), but they can fill you in on how to start looking. Remember, they're there to serve their constituents, and your family falls into that category. Also, remember that the staffs in these offices typically are populated by younger people. Be frank -- tell them you're looking for a job -- and make friends and lunch or after-work dates.
Of course, use the Web creatively.
Higher Education
The DC area abounds with places to further one's education. Many schools have evening programs, making it possible to pay (by working during the day) as you go. Possibilities for graduate and professional degrees include the following:
Private
Public
For Heaven's Sake, Get a Phone Book
Utilities? Cable? Pizza?
B. Just Visiting
Getting Acquainted with the Map
Quadrants
Names of the neighborhoods discussed in "Moving to DC (or considering it)," above, won't appear on most maps, but they're generally in NW DC, one of the four quadrants that will be labeled on the map. If you're visiting, NW -- together with a bit of the other quadrants -- is where you're likely to spend most of your time while here. All of the quadrants are centered around North, South, West, and East Capitol Streets. It's important to know that, in each quadrant, the lettered and numbered streets generally "start all over again." For example, 4th Street, NW and 4th Street, NE are two different streets.
Avenues and Streets
The diagonals in DC are generally long avenues named after states. They often converge in traffic circles. Many of the circles, in turn, contain small parks and Some Guy on a Horse.
The horizontal streets generally follow the alphabet and proceed from one-letter streets (for example, "F Street") to two-syllable streets (for example, XXX street) to three-syllable streets (for example, "Fessenden Street").
The vertical streets generally are numbered.
Checking Out What to Do
Read All about It
Before you come, and after you get here, look at the Washington Post and its Web site, www.washingtonpost.com. The daily Style section, and especially the Friday Weekend section, of the paper are likely to provide a good overview of Washington's most popular attractions, including both venues of longstanding and broad appeal and new and special interest attractions. Another excellent source is Washingtonian magazine and its Web site, www.washingtonian.com. The "Insider's Guide to Museums" on this Web site is particularly good.
The City Paper, published weekly in newspaper tabloid style, is a good place to check out small theater and dance performances, as well as nightlife for younger people. For those of all ages, it's a good place to get a perspective on "inside Washington" that you're not likely to get elsewhere. (On more or less the same subject, check out the Washington Monthly; it's not a good guide to the city, in terms of places to go and things to do, but it's a good read in terms of perspectives on politics and related issues.)
The Washington Blade, also published weekly in newspaper tabloid style, may be of interest to gays and lesbians.
Concierges
Never forget to use the services of the concierge in your hotel (if that's where you're staying). It may cost you a little (but probably won't), but these people can be extremely helpful in providing you with maps and written guides to the area, directing you to sites of interest, helping you get to them, and getting the hard-to-land ticket.
Hotels
Because Washington is the site of a lot of conventions and business and government meetings, and because we see a fair number of "celebrities" (foreign visitors, movie stars, and journalists), Washington has a lot of hotels. Many are at the high end, in terms of price, but there are also more reasonable accommodations.
It's difficult to say what's "in" and what's "out" at any particular time and to quote prices. In this day and age, it may be best to shop competitively by going on one of the big travel Web sites (for example, Expedia or Orbitz or hotels.com, as well as urban B&B Web sites) and then, perhaps, checking out hotels' individual Web sites. Of course, make sure you're in a desirable neighborhood and, preferably, close to a Metro station. Outside of Washington proper but still close by and near a Metro -- there are several options near National Airport/Crystal City, as well as Pentagon City.
Restaurants and Shopping (see "For Everyone")
A Long Weekend (or Sneaking out of the Seminar)
Don't be Afraid to be a Tourist
Many of the most frequented spots in Washington achieved their popularity because they have, in fact, proved to be great places to go over a number of years. So don't be afraid of being labeled a square just because you want to go to these spots or walk around with a guidebook and a map. Also, except for April and May, when there a number of school tours, the lines usually aren't that long.
Eight Great Things to Do (according to the Lawrence alumna author)
The Roosevelt (Franklin and Eleanor) Memorial. Only a few years old, this "memorial" (near the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial, and the famous Cherry Trees -- and consisting of a stroll outside among granite pieces, water features, and statues) teaches and inspires. The area is also very romantic at night -- it or the area immediately surrounding the Lincoln Memorial (not far away) would be a great place for a first kiss or a marriage proposal!
The Vietnam Veterans Memorial. On the Mall, near at around 21st Street. Everything it's cracked up to be.
The National Gallery of Art. 4th Street and Constitution Avenue, NW. On a class with the great museums of NY, Paris, and London. Free. Great architecture. Big and potentially daunting. If there are particular artists, styles, eras, etc. you want to see, you may want to get a guide beforehand and study. There are also typically about three special (sometimes "blockbuster" -- for example, Van Gogh or Vermeer) shows going on, for which you may need or want advance tickets. Note that the National Gallery is not part of the Smithsonian, so the Web site also is separate www.nga.gov. The National Gallery has a great cafeteria -- and don't forget to check out the store. Lots of cool stuff to buy, at inexpensive prices.
The Phillips Collection. 21st and Q Streets, NW. There's a small admission fee here, but it's worth it. World-class collection of late 19th and 20th century art in two lovely old mansions (connected). A nice, small café and, like the National Gallery, a great store.
A Walk in the Dupont Circle Neighborhood. You're here, in the western part of the neighborhood, if you're at the Phillips. If you're interested in destinations, other worthwhile places are the Textile Museum (rugs and other textiles from around the world and through the centuries -- S Street, between 22nd and 23rd) and the Woodrow Wilson house nearby. But also consider just meandering. A walk on Connecticut Avenue, between Dupont Circle itself and about California-Wyoming (where the Hilton is) also is fun -- many small stores, restaurants, and coffee bars.
The Holocaust Museum. Educational and disturbing, in the way "one wants" to be disturbed. Allocate a few hours to this visit. There's a small admission fee, but it's worth it.
The Library of Congress. Near the Capital. It could be a relatively quick visit, but all Lawrentians should see the Reading Room. Free (we, the people, own the books).
Union Station. Also near the Capital. Even if you're not traveling in and out of this station by "real train" or Metro, it's a good place to see a magnificent, classic train station converted to modern usage -- good stores and eateries of various types and price ranges. Also movie theaters downstairs.
Probably Overrated
The White House. The lines are usually long, and you don't get to see much -- no West Wing, no residence.
The Air and Space Museum. Long lines, lots of kids, and not worth it unless you're really into flight and space.
More Time
You'll find lots to do and see in any guidebook. Here are some not-terribly-well-known places that you might want to try:
The Freer-Sackler. 12th Street and Jefferson Drive, SW. Very complete venue for Asian art. Free.
The Hirshorn. 7th Street and Independence Avenue, SW. Sculpture inside and outside. Free.
The Corcoran. 500 17th Street, NW. Big building -- lots of art, mainly 19th and 20th century.
The Renwick. 17th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, NW. Beautiful mansion focusing on American jewelry, pottery, and crafts. Free.
The National Building Museum. 4th and F Streets, NW. Historically, "the Pension Building" -- a magnificent structure now dedicated to the art of building. Usually, one of the few non-hotel sites for a Presidential Inaugural Ball. Free.
Hillwood Museum and Gardens. 4155 Linnean Avenue, NW. (In Rock Creek Park, off Connecticut Avenue). The former home of Marjorie Merriweather Post (of Post cereal fame and the mother of Dina Merrill, actress married to Cliff Robertson). Marjorie's personal effects, including a huge shoe collection. Russian art and artifacts, including several Faberge eggs and other pieces. Pretty gardens. A small admission fee. Hard to get to -- take a cab.
The National Arboretum. Off New York Avenue, in NE DC. Take a cab. A big, lush green space with many types of gardens, rare plants and trees, and experts on the premises. A nice out-of-the-way spot if you're burned out on art, museums, and people and crave some quiet, outdoor time. Free.
Embassy Row (Massachusetts Avenue). Impressive old and new architecture. If your time is limited, simply ask a cab driver to take you from Dupont Circle to American University and back again. If you want something more in-depth, try to arrange with the concierge of your hotel to get a guided drive.
C. For Everyone
Traveling to DC
The Airports
National Airport is very convenient and the airport of choice for most domestic travelers. It's spiffy -- with good shops and restaurants. In addition to cabs and hotel buses, National has a Metro station. But, there's a catch: because it's so convenient and nice -- and well-known -- flights in and out of National can be more expensive than those in an out of Dulles or BWI (Baltimore-Washington International).
Dulles about 45 minutes west of downtown DC on a good day -- used to be under-utilized and lived up to its name: dull. A few years ago, however, it became a United hub, and several other airlines also increased their service there. Also, it was redone to include a few more activities for the passenger who has to wait. There's no Metro service to Dulles, but there are buses and vans that stop at the major hotels -- and, of course, cabs.
BWI is about 45 minutes north of downtown DC on a good day. A pretty busy airport, with Southwest as a major carrier. There is no Metro service, but there is Amtrak service from Union Station -- as well as buses, vans, and cabs.
Amtrak
A nice alternative to flying -- at least if you're coming from somewhere else in the "Northeast Corridor" -- for example, Boston, NY, Philadelphia. Amtrak offers a lot of discount deals for students and seniors and at certain times of the year, so check their Web site and other sources.
Greyhound
It may be the cheapest public means of transportation.
Getting Around the DC Area
Metro -- the subway -- is now over two decades old and continues to be a safe, clean, and efficient way to travel most places in the metropolitan area. Metrobus also services areas that are underserved by the subway, and some localities have their own bus systems -- for example, Montgomery County, Maryland has a generally reliable bus system.
DC city streets are crowded, free or cheap parking lots are next to nonexistent, and the DC traffic authorities are notorious parking-ticket givers (and tickets are not cheap).
The traffic around Washington is congested at most hours, even in the HOV (multiple passenger) lanes. We have long rush hours, morning and evening, due to flexible working schedules and workaholicism. Signage leaves something to be desired. So, if you must drive, allow plenty of time and be patient.
Cabs are plentiful. DC cabs used to have the reputation for being a bit third-world -- in terms of the cars themselves and the expertise in getting around of the drivers. But there's been a vast improvement in recent years. Three things you should know: (i) fares for DC cabs (but not VA or MD cabs) are charged according to a "zone" system (by geography), not meters, and the zones are not entirely equal (thanks, Congress!); (ii) DC cabs are allowed to pick up multiple passengers at multiple spots, although passengers have certain "consent" rights; (iii) there occasionally can be some weirdness, in terms of who can and will pick you up, if you're traveling between jurisdictions (DC, VA, and MD).