by Cara Helmke, ’00
If you notice any updates that need to be made, or have anything to add to any of the city guides, feel free to contact us.
- Getting Settled
- Getting Connected
- Getting Around
- Neighborhoods
- Where to Shop
- Arts and Culture
- Sightseeing and Landmarks
- Restaurants and Nightlife
- Professional Sports
- Higher Education
- Local Flora and Fauna
- Words of Wisdom
GETTING SETTLED
Electricity
Hydro Quebec, which generates hydro electricity from the St. Lawrence River, is the electric utility for the Montreal area. New accounts can be opened via their website
Natural Gas
Gaz Metro is the major natural gas provider for the Montreal area.
Telephone/Internet/Cable
There are three major providers of home phone, cable, internet, and wireless phone services:Bell Canada, Videotron, and Rogers. Ordering multiple services from one provider can save money and simplify billing.
Major mobile phone providers include Fido and Telus, in addition to the companies mentioned above. Virgin Mobile service is also available.
Helpful note: When purchasing a mobile phone and plan, some providers require the account holder to have a Canadian credit card. If you do not have a Canadian credit card, you may need to get an existing customer with that provider to co-sign your account. It is all very complicated and frustrating. This is the situation that I encountered in August 2005 with Fido, although there may have been changes to the process since then. There are also more additional charges for features (like voicemail and caller ID) that tend to come standard in the U.S., so make sure you know what you are receiving for the base rate and how much more these extra features will cost when comparing plans and prices.
Apartment/House Hunting
Apartments in Montreal are classified differently than in the U.S. A studio apartment is a 1½, studio with alcove a 2½, one bedroom a 3½, two bedrooms a 4½, on upward. The numbering does not necessarily define area, as some 3½ apartments can actually be smaller than 2½ apartments. The added numbers indicate separate rooms with doors, versus adjacent areas.
Apartments downtown are smaller and more expensive than those located in other urban/suburban areas. If working or studying downtown, however, the convenience can justify the price. Commuting to work or school on foot is very realistic. In the winter, the underground city, which is the largest underground complex in the world, is a great way to stay warm.
Since Montreal has excellent Metro and bus transportation, it can also be convenient to live in a neighborhood adjacent to or outside downtown. Rents are usually lower and apartments larger. It may also be better for families with children in terms of school accessibility, parking, etc.
Helpful note: Although Montreal is an extremely safe city in terms of low violent crime rates, several people I know have had their apartments broken into. Most were located in the area east of McGill University known as the “student ghetto.” I would suspect that similar break-ins occur in other parts of town as well. When looking for an apartment/condo, take the security of the building and unit in mind. Although it may cost more to live a building with a 24-hour doorman, the added peace of mind may be well worth it.
Hotels
Downtown Montreal offers the full spectrum of international hotel chains, but there are also a lot of smaller, and often more affordable, local hotels or bed and breakfasts. Montreal’s tourism website offers listings.
Getting Connected
Montreal’s official tourism website features an events calendar and hotel listings, among other useful resources. The province of Quebec also has a tourism website, with the Montreal page highlighting a variety of top attractions around the city.
The Centre Infotouriste Montreal is a convenient source for picking up brochures and booking tours and accommodations.
Newspapers
The Globe and Mail is Canada’s national newspaper. In Montreal, there is one daily English newspaper, The Montreal Gazette, and three daily French newspapers:La Presse; Le Devoir;
Le Journal de Montreal.
Getting around
Metro, Busses, and Cabs Montreal’s metro and bus system is extensive, efficient, clean and safe . Ample taxis are also available, with a fixed rate of $35.00 (as of 5/07) from Trudeau Airport to downtown. Getting around downtown is very manageable on foot, otherwise cabs, busses, and the metro are easily accessible and affordable options.
The Centre Infotouriste de Montreal at Square Dorchester (1255 rue Peel) is the hub for most bus tours around the city. In addition, it can provide information on all types of tours currently available.
Cruises Several companies offer cruises from May to October ranging from relaxing dinner cruises on the St. Lawrence River to exhilarating jet boat rides on the Lachine Rapids.
Bus Tours Gray Line Montreal offers sightseeing tours around the city.
Walking and Bike Tours Guidatour offers a walking tour of Old Montreal and bicycling tour roundabout of the city.
Neighborhoods
Montreal has a wide range of neighborhoods to suit different lifestyles. While many are known for their large concentrations of particular, ethnic, religious, or lingual groups, most still contain a certain degree of diversity. The island of Montreal is divided into 19 boroughs.
Ville-Marie comprises all of downtown Montreal and several other areas. It is further divided into neighborhoods, which most notably include Old Montreal, the Latin Quarter, the Gay Village, and Chinatown.
Where to Shop
Montrealers are avid shoppers who stay on top of the latest trends. It is easiest to divide great shopping by street, rather than store or mall, because there are dense concentrations of stores on all of these streets. Consider the sales tax (13.5% as of 5/07) and current exchange rates to determine if you are actually getting a great deal.
Old Montreal
Rue St-Paul is home to a wide variety of fine art galleries. There are also abundant souvenir shops in Old Montreal, although most offer items of the cheesy/cheap variety.
Ste-Catherine
Ste-Catherine between Crescent and Aylmer is the heart of Montreal’s shopping. With numerous malls connected via the underground city, reaching hundreds of stores is a breeze no matter the weather. Major department stores at street level include Simons, La Baie, and Ogilvy. Popular stores include Aldo, BCGB Max Azria, Le Chateau, Mango, and Zara to name a few. Many chain and specialty stores can be found within the malls. Most have food courts on their lowest level if you need to grab a quick bite to refuel. This street is your best bet for a wide variety of clothing, shoes, and accessories.
Sherbrooke
If you are in the market for some fine art or antiques, Sherbrooke west of Peel is a great destination. Montreal’s most luxurious boutiques are located here: Christian Dior, Gucci, and Hermès. Holt Renfrew department store provides more choices for men and women by high-end, internationally renowned designers. There are also several boutiques dedicated to designer and tailored apparel for men.
St-Denis
St-Denis offers a mix of ethnically inspired boutiques interspersed with cafes, restaurants, and bars. There are also clothing boutiques selling the fashions of local designers. It is a fun street for people watching and many eateries have outdoor seating to support this favorite pastime of Montrealers.
Mont-Royal
Mont-Royal has some similar, ethnically inspired boutiques to St-Denis. There are also small clothing boutiques and restaurants interspersed. This area is home to the young hipster crowd, which is apparent in the variety of stores
Arts and Culture
Montreal is THE city for festivals. It has more festivals per capita than any other major city in the world. The Montreal International Jazz Festival is the world’s largest jazz festival, with 650 concerts attracting over 2 million visitors annually. The Just for Laughs comedy festival is the world’s largest comedy festival. Les FrancoFolies des Montreal is the world’s largest celebration of French music.
Mondial de la Bière
Admission is free to this five-day international beer festival in late May. More than 350 beers, including 100 new beers, are available as 3-4 oz. samples. With drink coupons costing only $1, and each sample requiring 1-5 tickets, it’s an affordable way to explore a variety of tasty brews.
L’International de Feux Loto-Québec
Montreal’s fireworks competition features pyromusical displays with an International theme. Running from mid-June through late July, the free shows occur on most Wednesdays and Saturdays (check schedule online). Premium seats, with unobstructed views of the ground show, can be purchased in conjunction with admission to La Ronde amusement park. Each show is comparable to major 4th of July displays in the U.S.
Festival International de Jazz de Montréal
The Montreal International Jazz Festival – the largest jazz festival in the world – annually attracts two million visitors to 650 concerts, representing musicians from 30 countries. Over half of the late June to early July concerts are free and those charging admission, other than the biggest headliners, are reasonably priced.
Just for Laughs
As the world’s largest and most prestigious comedy festival, Just for Laughs features more than 650 artists who perform over 1,000 shows. This July festival celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2007.
Les FrancoFolies de Montreal
Held from late July to early August, Les FrancoFolies is the world’s largest celebration of French music. The 2007 festival included 74 indoor shows and 178 free outdoor shows featuring 1,000 authors, composers, musicians, and performers from 13 countries.
World Film Festival
Film premieres from 70 countries attract hundreds of thousands of attendees in late August to early September. In addition to reasonable individual ticket prices ($10/show) and volume discounts, some outdoor showings of new and classic films are free.
Montreal offers a $45 museum pass, which includes three days of access to 30 museums and public transportation. Some museums with convenient downtown locations include:
Musée des Beaux-Arts
Consisting of two buildings connected via underground tunnel, the Musée des Beaux-Arts attracts over a half million visitors annually. Admission to the museum’s permanent collection, which includes a variety of antiquities and art, is always free.
Redpath Museum
Located on the picturesque McGill University campus, the Redpath Museum contains extensive collections of fossils, minerals, and ethnological artifacts. The museum itself has historical significance as one of the oldest buildings built specifically to be a museum in North America, in 1882 to be precise.
McCord Museum
The McCord Museum has been dedicated to Canadian history since its founding in 1921. The museum’s exhibits draw from its collection of nearly 1.4 million objects, images, and manuscripts. Step back in time and enjoy the intriguing history of Montreal.
Sightseeing and Landmarks
Montreal offers an outstanding variety of architecture throughout the city. It was recognized as North America’s first UNESCO City of Design, and the third in the world following Buenos Aires and Berlin. Self-guided or guided walking tours are one of the best ways to discover Montreal’s architectural treasures.
Olympic Stadium and Tower
With 56,040 seats, the Olympic Stadium is the largest stadium in Canada. The Olympic Stadium Tower is the tallest inclined structure in the world – 175.3 meters at a 45 degree angle. Montreal’s 1976 Olympic Games were the most expensive in Olympic history ($5 billion at the time, equivalent to $20 billion in 2006).
Notre-Dame Basilica
Notre-Dame Basilica was the largest church in North America when completed in 1830.
Notre-Dame’s organ, among the world’s largest, features almost 7,000 pipes and 97 stops divided between four keyboards and pedal board.
Saint Joseph’s Oratory
Saint Joseph’s Oratory has the second largest dome of its kind in the world after Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Also the largest church in Canada, it accommodates 10,000 people standing or 3,000 sitting. The exterior dome is the highest point in Montreal, rising 506 feet above street level and 856 feet above sea level.
Mont-Royal Park
This 500 acre park in the heart of Montreal offers family recreation for all seasons – hiking, biking, sledding, skiing, show-shoeing, and, ice skating. There are over 35 miles of trails. The chalet offers a breathtaking vista of downtown and beyond. On summer Sundays, the east slope of the mountain near the Cartier monument features a drumming event called Tam-Tam (hand drum in French). Anyone can bring a drum or acoustic instrument and join in the fun.
Biodôme
Located in the former Olympic Velodrome, the Biodôme is home to five different ecosystems: Tropical Forest, Laurentian Forest, St. Lawrence Marine Ecosystem, Arctic, and Antarctic. Each features a variety of plant and animal life typical to the region – it is like a zoo, aquarium, and botanical garden in one!
Montreal Botanical Garden
The Montreal Botanical Garden, which celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2006, is one of the finest and largest in the world. In addition to 30 cultural and themed outdoor gardens, it features a series of 10 exhibition greenhouses and an insectarium. The garden is home to 22,000 plant species and cultivars and attracts nearly 1 million visitors annually. If visiting in September or October, the Chinese Garden’s “The Magic of Lanterns” exhibit is breathtaking at night.
La Ronde
A member of the Six Flags family of amusement parks, La Ronde features more than 40 rides and attractions for the whole family. With options ranging from a carousel to Goliath, the highest and fastest roller coaster in Canada, “kids” of all ages are sure to have a blast. From mid-June through late July, get front row seats for the international fireworks competition on select Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Restuarants and Nightlife
Eat up and drink up! Home to more than 5,000 restaurants representing over 80 nationalities, Montreal offers something for every palate and budget. In May 2006, Gourmet magazine dedicated an entire issue to Montreal. This is a great honor, considering London, Paris, Rome, New York, and San Francisco are the only other cities to ever receive dedicated issues. Montreal offers one of the most amazing dining opportunities in North America, second only to New York City for restaurants and bars per capita.
There are two primary streets that host Montreal’s vibrant nightlife – Crescent and St. Laurent. Both are home to a variety of restaurants, bars, and clubs. Crescent is a more central location and has the reputation of being more of a tourist hangout. For a more laid-back restaurant and bar scene, St. Denis appeals to a less raucous crowd. Duluth and Prince Arthur, which run perpendicular to St. Laurent, offer more affordable restaurants to hit before going out to a bar or club. Many of the restaurants on Prince Arthur and Duluth are bring your own wine.
Cara’s Picks
Pullman Wine Bar
3424 avenue du Parc, above Sherbrooke
This upscale wine bar and tapas lounge is a great setting for a sophisticated happy hour or romantic evening out. It features an extensive wine menu and tasty (although pricey!) nibbles available in small quantities – so you can try several if your budget allows.
Rouge
7 Prince Arthur Ouest, corner St-Laurent
Rouge is one of the hottest clubs for the 25+ crowd on Friday and Saturday nights. It features two floors – the lower bar/lounge playing pop and classics and the upper playing pop and R&B for the dance floor. With no cover charge and bottle service available, it‘s for the budget traveler and high roller alike. Arrive early to avoid the line. St-Laurent is a nightlife hub, featuring numerous restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Dieu du Ciel!
29 avenue Laurier Ouest
Although outside of downtown, a cab ride will easily transport you to this cozy brew pub. Their website provides a listing of currently available beers, all brewed in-house.
Hurley’s Irish Pub
1225 rue Crescent, below Ste-Catherine
Hurley’s features a great selection of imported beers on tap in an authentic Irish Pub atmosphere. In addition to live music and reasonably priced food, Hurley’s has a variety of indoor and outdoor seating options to fit your mood. It’s located on Crescent Street, one of Montreal’s nightlife hubs, which offers more than 25 bars and restaurants over several blocks.
Les Deux Pierrots
104 rue St-Paul Est
Les Deux Pierrots provides an authentic Quebec experience in Old Montreal. Live bands perform a variety of English and French music to a very enthusiastic crowd that enjoys drinking and dancing. It can get crowded on the weekends, but the live music is well worth the moderate cover charge and possible line-up.
Local Culinary Specialties
Smoked Meat
3895 boulevard Saint-Laurent
Schwartz’s, the oldest deli in Canada, is one of the most famous stops for smoked beef brisket. The Financial Times of London sums it up best: "A Beef on Rye to Freeze to Death for!" Be prepared to wait during busy times.
Poutine
994 Rachel Est
So what is poutine exactly? It’s a simple local specialty: French fries with cheese curds and gravy. Well, that’s a classic poutine, at least. La Banquise is widely recognized by the young hipster crowd as the best place for after bar poutine. It offers more than 20 variations on the standard poutine, adding different toppings and sauces. Open 24-7, visitors can get a poutine fix day or night. Warning: you may have to wait for a table on weekend nights after 3:00 a.m. For the drunken crowd averse, visit during the day or try a less gourmet version at just about any local greasy-spoon or fast food restaurant.
Beaver Tail/ Queue du Castor
127 de la Commune Est
A beaver tail is a fried whole-wheat pastry served with a variety of toppings. The BeaverTails franchise has several Montreal locations, most notably in Old Montreal. Try the beurre d’erable (maple butter).
Professional Sports
Montreal offers world-class spectator sports for hockey, soccer, and football fans alike.
Montreal Canadiens
If you want to experience the true spirit of Montreal, attend a Canadiens hockey game at the Bell Center. Known to fans as the Habs, the Canadiens have more Stanley Cup wins (24) than any other NHL team. You can catch a pre-season game in September or regular season game October through early April. If you want to get into the spirit but don’t want to splurge on tickets, catch the game at a sports bar.
Montreal Impact
With its globally diverse population, Montreal is home to a strong following of soccer fans. The Impact’s season runs from late April to early September.
Montreal Alouettes
The Alouettes, Montreal’s Canadian Football League (CFL) team, plays just up the hill from downtown at Molson Stadium. Their season runs June to October.
Higher Education
Montreal is truly a college town, rivaling Boston for the highest per capita population of post-secondary students in North America. CEJEP (Collège d'enseignement général et professionnel) programs offer students pre-university or technical training for two or three years following 11th grade. Montreal is home to four major universities:
Concordia University
The largest English language university in Montreal, Concordia has nearly 40,000 students from 150 countries. Concordia is known for its diverse program offerings, with over 500 available to undergraduate and graduate students.
McGill University
The oldest university in Montreal, McGill was founded in 1821 and has become one of Canada’s most internationally recognized universities. McGill’s 32,000+ students hail from around 140 countries, making it the most internationally of any medical-doctoral university in Canada.
Université de Montréal
With 55,000 students, the University of Montreal is the second largest French-language university in the world after the University of Paris. It is the largest university in Quebec and second largest in Canada.
UQÀM (Université du Québec à Montréal)
Another very large French-language university, UQÀM has more than 42,000 students. Including its distance learning students, it could be considered the largest French-language university in the world with around 60,000 total students.
Local Flora and Fauna
Although not home to any “exotic” species by North American standards, Montreal features a wide array of native and non-native plant and animal species at its Biodôme and Botanical Garden (see “Sightseeing and Landmarks”). Mont-Royal Park is a great place to convene with nature while in the city. Quebec is home to numerous maple trees, which make the province the largest maple syrup producer in the world. If visiting in March, take a trip to a “sugar shack” where you can learn how syrup is produced and enjoy a hearty meal of traditional Canadian fare.
Mont-Royal Park
To see native plant and animal species in their natural habitat, explore Mont-Royal’s 35+ miles of hiking trails in the park and keep your eye out for birds, squirrels, chipmunks and other small animals.
Words of Wisdom
Come with an open mind and be willing to try new things. Montreal’s beauty lies in its people and the diversity of cultures, languages, history, arts, music, architecture, etc. they share. Reading travel guides will give you a good idea of the variety available, but just walking around town and popping into restaurants, stores, museums, etc. is a great way to explore the city. Picking up a bit of French beforehand is also recommended. Most service industry professionals in the downtown area are bilingual. It makes a favorable impression, however, to be able to exchange basic salutations and courtesies in French. Bon voyage!
